Victoria Falls to Msuna Walk June 2010

This has to rate as one of the most rewarding activities I have ever done.  I enjoy walking and relished the idea of doing a really long walk, so when I found out that a friend in Victoria Falls was planning a walk from there to Msuna, I jumped at the opportunity to invite myself along.  We packed our walking shoes, tent, bed and coffee mug, and Judy arranged the food ... and a FINE job she did of that too !!  It was the middle of winter and we met in the dark at 6-ish and set off around 6.30.

The view of the Victoria Falls spray, early in the morning of  the first day.

We walked nearly 30 kms that first day.  I was finished by the time we reached "Three Baobabs Camp" late that afternoon !!  I had serious doubts that I would be able to continue with this walk.  I was disappointed to say the least ... my hips were jarring with every step, my calves had cramped and I was generally aching from head to toe.  My fellow walkers were very generous in sharing their advice and meds to keep me going !! Our arrival had attracted a huge amount of interest, and the local population came to sit near us and watch us set up camp.  We were lucky to have Leon Varley with us (he does walking safaris for a living, and then walked with us for fun !), and his mobile bush shower and loo ... very organised !!  The loo was given the nickname "The Kitty Box" because of the process of finishing up one's visit to it with a liberal sprinkling of wood shavings to cover up whatever was left behind.  That evening there was not too much banter around the campfire .. in fact I think I was in bed asleep by about 7.30.

Holly and Karl .. the gorge in the background.

Sunset end of Day 1

When I woke in the morning, it was to find that all the potions and lotions and a good sleep had helped my wrecked body to some extent, but I was still concerned about the remaining 100-odd kilometres I had to walk !!  I made a deal with myself ... I would start the walk after each stop we made .. if I was struggling by the time the back-up vehicles had caught up with me .. then I would catch a lift to the next camp with them.  That way I would at least be participating in the whole walk, and doing some of each section.  I felt much better about things having made that plan, and set off in the cool dark morning.  One thing I had discovered the day before was that it is fatal to walk at someone else's pace !!  (We had Zanna and Catherine - who became suitably nicknamed at the Galloping Grannies because of their ability to disappear over the horizon in no time at all !!).  I knew that I must walk at a pace I was comfortable with .. this wasn't a race after all !!!  And so, step by step I continued on my way, coping with the residual aches and pains.  We were not walking so far on this 2nd day, and the going was quite flat and easy, so as I heard the vehicles approaching, I had to make a decision as to what I was doing... well I decided that I had loosened up enough to continue, seeing as I only had another hour or so to walk, and bravely waved and smiled to our wonderful back-up team.

On the road, Day 2

We reached our 2nd night camp around lunchtime, and were going to rest up for the remainder of that day.  The camp was on the edge of the road, and near to a village, and once again we were quite an attraction, but everyone we encountered was so friendly and delighted to see us ... even if they thought our mission was crazy.  On hearing that we were walking to Msuna, one kind young fellow told us to wait where we were, he would just go and drop off the passengers he had and come back to fetch us so he could drive us to Msuna because that was too far to walk !!  The afternoon's rest was good, we had time to set up camp and have a snooze.  The old achey body was starting to feel not so bad after all - aided, of course, by Judy's wonderful and generous menu and Plax's delicious bush cooking.

The morning of Day 3, we were up and on the road even earlier, walking along by the light of our head torches.  It was a very peaceful time of day !!  This was going to be another long day of walking, so I once again made my deal with myself about catching a lift on the back up vehicles if necessary.  But I was now going well !!  It was a beautiful day and we were to walk over more varied terrain.

Sunrise Day 3

The view from our breakfast spot Day 3

Leon on the road Day 3

We were all "in the zone" on this day, and could not sit still for long.  We had planned a long lunch break before completing our final section to camp.  But... the "buffalo movement" had us leave our lunch camp an hour and a half early !! Judy wanted to amble along for a while, enjoy the view, stop at a stream and "chill".  Well ... there was no being left behind !!  As soon as that first set of shoes was put on and Judy started on the road ... there was a rush .. shoes on and let's go !!  We were going so well that day that we did an extra 10 kms. It was a lovely day, and we finished up camping just past Sidinda village.  That evening we were joined by friends from Msuna who brought us much needed ice and some fresh veges.

The next day we knew that we were going to be reaching the Zambezi and had a great camp spot lined up.  It was an early start again, and once again we were treated to some spectacular scenery.

Day 4 - first view of the Zambezi just after sunrise

Which way ?? Up or down ??

The view looking towards Hwange

Some of my fellow walkers amongst the beautiful
colours of the winter mopane

It was on this day that we passed the 100km peg.  I was cruising on Day 4 .. there no longer ANY aches and pains, and I felt such an achievement when I found that kilometre peg.  "I've walked a hundred kilometres"  .. it was a good feeling.

I found the 100 km-ish peg on the side of
the road !

This was another "short" walk day, designed to give us some time in a very pretty spot.  We spent the afternoon resting up on the river bank, enjoying the sound of the water, bird watching, reading, snoozing, eating and drinking !!  This was our last night of the walk, and we actually managed to stay awake long enough to hear some of Leon's entertaining campfire stories (don't ever miss out on that if the opportunity presents itself ..)

The River in front of our camp

Our last day of walking had arrived.  We had some 25 kms to do, and it felt as if we just flew along.  We were all so walking-fit by now that we opted to skip the lunch break and just head for our destination which was "just down the road".  The nearer we got to Msuna, the more sad I became .. I just didn't want it to end !

The last leg ... the main road to Msuna

I learnt a few things on this walk .. the most important one being .. DON'T WALK TOO FAST .. this is not an exercise walk, I almost spoilt the whole walk by over doing it on the first day !  And take time to enjoy the surroundings more.  There is talk that the walk will happen again in 2011 .. if it does, I'm planning to go again !! 

Our destination

....   and I didn't get a single blister ...!