HWANGE NATIONAL PARK JULY 2010

In July I was back in Hwange National Park for a long weekend to help with the winter leg of the Water Fowl Bird Count.  This time my knowledgeable friend and I camped at Mandavu Dam, near Sinamatella.  It was just the 2 of us "Girl Guides"... however, this "Girl Guide" was not as well prepared as the other, but I knew I could rely on Cecelia to bring "everything" ... she has been doing this for years and years !!  It became a joke between us that "next time" I would get organised.  We drove in to the Park via Hwange Town / Sinamatella because it was getting late and there was no time for us to drive through the Park. 

This sign amused me ... but the laugh was on me ...!!

The Sabi Stars in full bloom at Sinamatella

We arrived at our campsite in the early evening, and got out of the car to the sound of a lion roaring, not too far away.  What a lovely welcome !!  In the last light of the day we organised our beds - Cecelia put her tent up and I sorted out the back of the truck where I sleep under the canopy - and got our carnivore dinner on the go after sorting out the upside down braai !!  The lion continued its call, and was joined periodically by another. By bedtime, a 3rd lion has joined in the conversation ... one of them was now VERY close to camp, the other 2 a little further away with one of them definately being on the other side of the dam.  I lay in my comfy bed relishing the sound of the lions, but by midnight I had given up taking note of which lion was calling from where but was still enjoying the sound which was waking me periodically.  By 3 a.m. I was beginning to understand why one always sees photos of lions sleeping under trees in day time - they sure don't sleep at night.  As we crawled out of our respective sleeping areas, I politely asked Cecelia if she had slept well.  She glared at me ..... "SLEEP ...???   SLEEP ...??? Who can sleep around here with that bloody noise all night??  And so the sound of lions calling was a little less enchanting from then on.  And as a parting shot, it was full daylight and we were up with coffee and binos when we heard the last call ...

Mandavu Dam has for a long time been home to a charming colony of dassies (rock hyrax).  I couldn't stop watching them, they were so cute going about their daily business of playing and finding food.  I spent a great deal of time watching them instead of the birds ... and took dozens of photos of them.  Whilst not completely tame, they were used to people enough to pose long enough to have their photos taken.

The Mandavu Dam Dassies

We spent that day with binos and telescopes scouting the dam for birds, saw some great sights and had a successful count.  We were amazed at the amount of crocodiles we saw in the dam, and they ALL seemed to be big !!  As the sun came up, they headed from all directions to a sandbank and crowded on to bask in the winter son.  At one stage they were joined by an adolescent hippo who basked with them all day.  There was a few anxious moments when later that afternoon hippo decided to leave but didn't know which way to go as the island was tightly packed with crocs.  We watched as young hippo tippy-toed over and around the grumpy crocs until finding its way back to the water and waiting mum.

Mandavu Dam

Mandavu Camp and Picnic site boasts a nice hot open air shower, and 2 flush loos (complete with good old National Parks highly polished floors), so we were quite happy with our lot.  There are 2 young attendants there who we didn't see too much of, but who Cecelia had to not-so-politely ask to shut up when they went to "chat" with their mate who was fishing (illegally, we later discovered) right in front of the camp - this happening when we were trying to have an afternoon zizz to catch up on sleep lost listening to noisy lions the night before.  There is a lot of stone work around the camp, and in the midst of the garden is a concrete bird bath ... why don't they keep this full, I said ... because there were lovely birds around the camp, so I got the bucket and filled the bird bath, which was gratefully used by the many resident birds.  Much later than night as we sat by our campfire (a couple of metres away from said bird bath), we heard a movement and lapping at the water ... I shone my torch across, straight on to a spotted hyena !!  Oh hello !!!  This made me a little uneasy, especially as it just stood and sniffed the air, in our direction.  Now, as all of you will remember from watching the movie The Gods Must Be Crazy, one only has to make themselves appear bigger than a hyena in order to intimidate it.  So I leapt out of my chair, and using some rather unladylike language, asked it to leave.  It just looked me up and down, sniffed the air again and asked me what my problem was !!  I returned sheepishly and uneasily to my chair whilst my kindly companion was having a laughing fit, with tears in her eyes, at my poor understanding of animal behaviour.  All you have to do, she said, is shine a light, they won't come in to the light. With the camp instantly lit up by every available torch, the hyena silently left, leaving me in a complete hurry to get into the relative safety of my barred canopy high on the 4x4.  The next morning saw me wandering around camp checking all the hyena tracks to see how close it had come !!

This day we set aside to take a trip up to Bumbusi Ruins, which I had not visited before and had been wanting to for a long time. We packed a cold box and set off to check in with Parks and collect the ranger who would be accompanying us. The terrain changes dramatically north of Sinamatella and becomes very hilly .. we had to get across those hills to reach Bumbusi, and although the drive is only some 30 km, it seemed to take forever, but was very scenic.  To get to where we were going, we drove past the area which is now being mined !!  This is a very contentious and emotional subject for us all ... mining WITHIN the National Park, and the damage that is being done there is unbearable.  Whilst I realistically know that this kind of thing can never be avoided, I do wonder if I will ever hear of what the mining is giving back to the Park ... shouldn't they be compensated with land elsewhere ?? Or should they buy that land from Parks.  It really goes against the grain seeing that they are tearing the Park up .. it's so wrong .. why have a Park if anyone can go and mine in it ??

Mining in Hwange National Park

We continued on our way, had to go to Bumbusi Camp - which is now leased privately to South Africans and who were not happy to see us arriving in "their" area - to check in with the Parks ranger there so that he knew we were in the area.  We then back tracked to Bumbusi Ruins, which are a short walk off the road.  These ruins were definately worth seeing.  They are totally unprotected, so as time passes they are being knocked down by the visiting animals ... there is plenty of evidence that large game passes through there.  The petrographs at the ruins, and also at a different nearby site, are the only known petrographs in the country - they are amazing !! 

Bumbusi Ruins and Petrographs

I am very fortunate that Cecelia's son Paul is a historian and archeaologist, and also, incidentally, a licenced guide (see http://greatguidesorg.blogspot.com), so I was able to get information from him as Cecelia came armed with notes about the ruins.

We were out the whole day, and returned to Mandavu late in the afternoon, game viewing on the way.  That night I was on high hyena-alert, and sure enough, some rustling leaves on the other side of the camp wall announced the arrival of our night time visitor.  I kept flashing the torch in its direction hoping that would encourage it to leave, but after a few minutes saw it strolling into the camp area via a nice hyena size hole in the fence, just by the loo ... lovely !!  It actually left us alone, until we went to bed  ..  Cecelia said she could see it through her tent and it waited patiently in the shadows until we were tucked up and was about to come out when I realised I had left my specs in the front of the car and poked my head out the back flashing the light checking for hyenas before clambering out and retrieving the specs so that I could read a little before going to sleep.  Apparently hyena took refuge behind Cecelia's tent and waited there until I had finished faffing .. when it didn't move off quickly, she switched her torch on and that did the trick and it shot off to inspect our camp.... this I only found out the next morning, when I also found that hyena had been prowling around my truck .. ugh !!  Funnily enough, despite the warning sign that "hyenas eat anything", this particular visitor to camp did not do any damage or steal anything at all.

We left Mandavu the next morning and drove out through the Park .. that always takes quite a few hours, and we also stopped at various pans on the way to see what birds were there.  Not known for my bravery when it comes to elephants, we had a bit of a situation when we came across an old bull snoozing under a tree, VERY close to the road. Options such as waiting for him to wake up and move on or finding a way around were not practical.  After idling a couple of 100 metres away from him, girding myself to pass him, I started to creep up on him hoping he wouldn't hear us coming and we could sneak past .. well, that didn't happen !!  We were not all that close when I saw his tail curl and I knew he knew we were there ... he turned his head and shook it briefly with a loud "snoosh" .. that was enough for me to have reversed the car back to beyond where we had just started from.  It became apparent that he wasn't going anywhere, but I also knew we couldn't sit there for the next 4 hours whilst he rested, and we were still miles away from Main camp.  I decided to be brave !!  I eyed out what I decided would become my "point of no return"  .. if I reached there without him doing anything, then I would put the hammer down and race past him, hoping that he wouldn't head us off ... in reality he was about 2 and a half paces from the road so we would be well within reach.  With thumping heart we sneaked up and up and up and up and then right past !!  He did NOTHING !!  We were so close we could see his beautiful long eyelashes, which he just batted at us as we crept past.  AAAAhhhh ... then he went from being a savage beast to the best elephant in the world .. sweet thing .. he only snooshed at us before because we probably gave him a fright, once he knew we were there he wasn't the least bit worried about us !!

Our fine old gentleman snoozing under the tree next to the road

Main Camp is so close to Bulawayo, once past the point it is only a couple of hours before reaching home, and so ended another WONDERFUL stay in Hwange.  This Park is just waiting for visitors .. please make a trip ASAP !!