Camping in Matopos

Mike and I joined our other amateur researchers in the Matopos for a couple of nights, camping at Maleme Dam.  We do this every year in winter, and I don't know why, but we seem to really enjoy it and keep going back to freeze ourselves in the early winter mornings when we need to get out of our sleeping bags (and added blankets !) as early as 4 a.m.

We had the campsite nearest to the facilities - the loos were flushing AND had seats to sit on - only the gents had hot water showers, so we all used those, but wonderfully piping hot they were.  There was some concern about the electrics in the showers, but fortunately I was only made aware of that AFTER my shower -  I would recommend keeping your slops on !

The first night that we slept there was very very cold !  Despite all my clothing and bedding, I still felt somewhat chilly in the dark early hours and it was almost a relief to finally get up.  I did not sleep well at all, being still city-wound-up and tense, but mostly because the Egyptian Goose that resided in the dam nearby lost its partner / offspring / nest and honked and quacked ALL night !  Come 0430, I was heading out on a duck hunt !!!

The daytime temperatures were just perfect, and back in camp we sat in the sun soaking up the warmth and watching the picnickers.  Be warned that there are 4 horses which reside at Maleme.  They are relics left over from the days of Horse Trails in the Park and appear to be living out their days in peaceful bliss alongside the dam.  They are very laid back and friendly, accepting attention and titbits from the visitors, not seeming to mind at all when children were placed on their backs, sometimes three-up.  However, these horses are also born scavengers !!  They are as bad as the baboons when it comes to digging in the dustbins and snooping for snacks in the campsites - we even had one come in after dinner and lick the plates !  When the gentlemen standing around one truck took offence to the digging around in the back by two of these horses, they shoo-ed them away .... no response !!  They shoo-ed more energetically ... no response.  One got old of a large piece of cardboard and waved it around ... no response.  The cardboard was smacked against one rather rotund shiny belly .. this got a LITTLE response.  Encouraged by this  small success, the man (whom we named The Horse Whisperer) waved the cardboard more widely and issued a few more belly smacks.  This got Shotgun (as we named him) moving a little more.  The Horse Whisperer was now very confident and there were a few more rump smacks issued ... Shotgun took great offence to this, and in the matter of seconds double-barrelled The Horse Whisperer with his back legs.  FORTUNATELY, Shotgun was off target by about 3 cms, and so there was no physical damage, and The Horse Whisperer was left standing cleaning bits of grit which came off the flying hooves out of his eyes whilst his mate shooed Shotgun away.  As there was no harm done, we were able to laugh ourselves silly at this little scenario that had played out ... especially when Shotgun and his buddies head back to put their heads in the back of the same truck about a minute later. We noticed that thereafter The Horse Whisperer gave all and any of the said 4 horses a very wide berth !!

However, WE were also tormented by Shotgun and his mates much later that night when they decided to exercise themselves in the middle of the night by galloping the length of the campsite several times.  The speed of those hoofbeats made sure we knew they were traveling at top speed, and we just had to hope they could see our tents and cars (especially that of our trusty helper who was set away from us in a pimple of a tent made of dark fabric - he must have been saying his prayers each time the sound of the galloping herd got louder and closer !).  We don't know why they were galloping around, but once they were tired out, they spent a good time nosing around our campsite, knocking things over and nibbling noisily nearby.  However, with the temperature being what must have been quite a few numbers higher, they did not disturb ME much and I slept very well on the second night, by now being nicely relaxed.  So, the purpose of this particular story is to warn you to be on the lookout, not only for baboons and monkeys, but also for friendly horses !!

At some stage in the night, I was surprised to hear a hippo grunt - in fact, in the morning, although I was sure I hadn't, I wondered if I had dreamt it !!  I have never seen or heard a hippo at Maleme before.  I was relieved to have another member of our group, who apparently does not sleep much, confirm that he also had heard the hippo in the night.  I'm petrified of hippo - I'm glad I now know I need to be on the look out  there ...

The remainder of our days were spent covering parts of the Park in pursuit of our particular project - it really is the MOST majestic and magical place - one needs to go there and just breathe it all in and find peace amongst the rocks.

On the way home, we went out the Arboretum Gate, and I decided on the spur of the moment to give Mike a quick history lesson and we pulled in to the old Railway Terminus.  I have driven past this on countless occasions and think the last, and only other, time I was there was probably when I was Mike's age (that's a LONG time ago !!).  He found it really quite interesting and asked a bunch of questions, most of which I was thankfully able to answer.  Of course the old terminus is over-grown, faded and unkempt, but it has not been interfered with and I'm sure that in time the History Society will pay it some attention.

And so ended another perfect weekend in the beautiful Matobo Hills.

Apologies ...

So sorry - I omitted to apologize for the long absence - there certainly have been some travels in this time and I shall post some photos of the places I have been to shortly.

Indaba - THE Southern African Travel Show - Durban

I paid a flying visit to Durban to attend the Indaba Travel Show.  This is the best show in the region and THE place to be to meet people in the industry and update yourself on where to go and what to do.  Many Zimbabwe Exhibitors were there once again, and were kept busy by the many enquiring agents and operators in the travel trade.  Some new products were launched, and hopefully I shall be able to visit them and feature them on this blog at same stage.  There were powerful and emotional speeches given by fellow Zimbabweans, which left me feeling proud and elated, and dying to get back to work.

I flew SA Airlink from Bulawayo to Joburg (the most expensive flight per km in the world ! so I hear ...), and Kulula.com between Joburg and Durban.  Both flights in both directions were absolutely spot on time - Kulula started out a few minutes late on the way down, but caught up the time easily - and the snack boxes served on Airlink were really very tasty !!  My luggage arrived on the same flights as I did, intact and untampered-with. Our landing in Bulawayo on my return home was possibly the smoothest I have ever experienced - fellow passengers also commented on this on our way to the terminal in the bus.

As always, it was good to get home ... Bulawayo has the sweetest smelling air !!

FLIGHT FROM VICTORIA FALLS TO BUMI HILLS

I was all set to visit the recently refurbished and reopened Bumi Hills Safari Lodge (well, it is about 2 years now since it was reopened), and to get there I flew with Solenta Aviation from Vic Falls.  The plane was a Cessna Caravan seating 12 when full, and what a great plane this is ... with it's crew of Captain and First Officer, I couldn't quite figure out if it was a big little plane, or a little big plane, but it was great being able to leave your seat to swop sides and  check out an alternative view (the flight wasn't full).  Passengers can help themselves to an assortment of ice cold drinks from the cold box at the back of the plane.

The flight from the Falls to Bumi was as smooth as can be and it was fun picking out well known places from the air.

A view of the Falls spray

Rain shower over Zambia

The Zambezi River at Deka

Msuna Island

The flight is not long .. and hour and a quarter .. so all very quickly the Bumi air strip came in to sight.  We did a low fly past (the operative word here is LOW !!) to clear the air strip of animals ... there were impala on the runway, zebra on the side, and some elephant close to the water's edge... and did a circle around the lodge, seeing it from "eye level", and giving them a bit of time to drive down to meet us.

In my next posting I will tell you about my stay at this wonderful place !

VICTORIA FALLS

I love visiting Victoria Falls !!!  This is a little town with a lot happening, amid a happy holiday ambience.  There is a huge selection of places to stay through the whole spectrum of standards and types - basic self catering, upmarket self catering, campsites, river lodges, game lodges, B&B's, hotels large and small, family and luxury .. it's all there.  And add to that the choice of activities and sights to see in the all-year-round-summer-weather, and you have a real holiday destination !!  Ride the rapids on a White Water Rafting day trip, walk with the lions, ride an elephant, see the crocodiles, view the Falls from a helicopter on the Flight of Angels, get soaking wet walking through the Rain Forest whilst soaking up the beautiful sight of the Falls themselves, cruise on the river, go shopping, try your luck at the casino, view big game from horseback .... there is plenty to fill your days, and you will probably wish you were staying longer !!  And the local people are so friendly and helpful too.

VICTORIA FALLS - OLD URSULA CAMP, STANLEY & LIVINGSTONE

Old Ursula Camp is a great spot !!!  This is a self-catering camp with some exclusivity. Only 4 tastefully furnished rooms and dining / lounge lodge, and the pool area with an elevated platform for game viewing over the vlei, make up this camp.  It is fully equipped and staffed (including a chef) and is set in a lush garden.


The "Big Brother" next door to Old Ursula Camp is the luxurious Stanley & Livingstone hotel, a sprawling colonial affair !!  The hotel is set in the private Victoria Falls Game Reserve, which is home to a huge variety of small, plains and big game .. including rhino and wild dog.


Both lodges are about 14 kms from the town of Victoria Falls, and easily accessible from the main road.  The S&L provides a complimentary shuttle service in and out of town.

Reservations for both properties can be made through Africa Spectacular.

VICTORIA FALLS - THE ELEPHANT CAMP

The Elephant Camp, situated 10 km out of Victoria Falls, is a relatively new development, and I couldn't wait to see it, as it looked quite different from anything else in the area.  Jonathan Ellway, the charismatic General Manager, met me on arrival and gave me a tour of the camp, and I have to say .. it is awesome !!!  Each suite is a stand alone unit, having its own timber deck and plunge pool overlooking the bush, the river gorge and the Falls spray, plus a full bathroom (and an outdoor shower too), lounge area, mini bar and tea/coffee making facilities, with air conditioning !!  All meals, airport and town transfers are included in the rate, and guests also get to meet the Wild Horizons elephants that live on the concession.  This is a truly special spot, and well worth staying at on your next visit to Vic Falls.

Reservations for The Elephant Camp can be made through Africa Spectacular booking office - afspec@yoafrica.com

VICTORIA FALLS - GORGES LODGE

I have a great affection for Gorges Lodge and think it is one of the most under rated places to stay in Victoria Falls, so when I made a trip to the Falls I looked forward to staying there again. For good reason, small children are not permitted at Gorges as the lodge is situated literally "on the edge". There are no photos that can do justice to the view, plus there is the awesome sound of an awesome river that resounds up the high rock walls.  The bedrooms are large and airy, and very comfortable, and I could spend all day sitting on the verandah just staring into the distance.  It is also a great spot for raptor viewing, as there are many species that nest in the rocks, some of them quite rare.  The restaurant serves simple but delicious meals, and a FULL plate !!  There is something about this place that is good for the soul .. it has to be that expansive view ......

BOTSWANA FOR NEW YEAR

For our last trip of 2010, we travelled to the Kalahari to see in the New Year with good friends.  I had not travelled to that area ever before, and so was looking forward to the new sights.  It was a long trip and so we planned a night's stopover in the Makgadikgadi Pans area, and I had read and heard about the quirky Planet Baobab, so this was where we booked in for the night.  It was everything I expected it to be and has an awesome atmosphere. One can't miss it ... just look for the signs !!!!

This is one area that I definately MUST visit again.

We continued on our way the next day, stopping in Maun for breakfast.  I liked the look of Maun, I wouldn't mind spending a little time there.

After breakfast and some supplies shopping, we continued on our way until reaching the turn off to where we were headed.  I thought we were in a "desert", but I had to open the gate in the pouring rain !!

We spent a wonderful 5 full days with our friends .. in that time we still did not get all around the property.  We saw plenty of game .. including lions .. and learnt a lot about this flat, featurless, but VERY interesting land.  Every day we drove out, we appeared to be heading directly for the rain storm (hence we nicknamed ourselves The Stormchasers), and it became clear that being in a "desert", doesn't mean it that it never rains ... the vegetation and soil also has something to do with it !!  We visited friends of friends for lunch ... that was a 2 hour drive away !!  but what a wonderful day with lovely people.  It was an awesome trip, and once again, this area definately warrants further exploring !

All too soon our stay in the Kalahari was over and we had to head home.  We decided that on the way back we would do the drive all in one day.  It was interesting to see that the pans in the Makgadikgadi had filled with water in our absence !!  We stopped briefly in Nata to grab a Wimpy breakfast, and had a quick stop at Nata Lodge to look around !  

The border at Plumtree was a breeze, and we got home in the late afternoon.

This trip definately whetted the appetite for another trip, particularly into the Makgadikgadi Pans !!!